Drive along U.S. Highway 491 in the Four Corners region of northwestern New Mexico, and you’re sure to see rising out of the vast, high-desert plain the iconic winged rock — Shiprock Peak — that, perhaps more than anything, defines the Land of Enchantment.
Geology and Formation of Shiprock
Shiprock (sometimes spelled as two words, Ship Rock) is the remnant of a magma plug that formed some 27 million years ago.
The magma intruded under layers of sandstone and shale laid down as sediments in the ancient Western Interior Seaway but never erupted on the surface. It cooled in the throat of the unfulfilled volcano, perhaps 3,000 feet below, and formed the plug.
The magma also followed cracks in rocks, forming seven dikes radiating away from the central formation. Three of these dikes, or volcanic pressure ridges, are dominant — ranging west, northeast, and southeast of the main formation.
Erosion Makes Shiprock Visible
What you see today is the root system of a volcano slowly revealed by wind and water erosion over millions of years. Today, Shiprock rises nearly 1,600 feet above the plain and stands 7,177 feet above sea level.
The longest dike is five miles long and, although only about 10 feet wide at the top, rises 150 feet. Think about that a moment: The land around Shiprock was once 3,000 or more feet higher than what can be seen today. All of it broke down and washed away.
That’s the science behind the pinnacle Captain J.F. McComb of the U.S. Geological Survey named “The Needle” in 1860. By the 1870s, Geological Survey maps identified the peak as Shiprock, which is reasonable considering it does appear as a clipper ship under sail from a distance.
However, the Navajo people see something else when they look at the unfulfilled volcano’s exposed plug.
Navajo call it Tsé Bit’a’í
The Navajo protect Shiprock, which stands on the Navajo Nation. The Navajo call the spire Tsé Bit’ a’í, meaning Rock with Wings, a name they gave it five centuries before Anglos arrived.
The rock, of course, is Shiprock Peak, and the wings are the dikes — volcanic pressure ridges. The rock figures in their creation story and is sacred to them.
Legend of Tsé Bit’ a’í
Based on oral history, the ancestral Navajo were under siege by an aggressive tribe in the far north. When their medicine men prayed for salvation, the ground beneath them became a huge bird that transported them to the Southwest.
The bird landed at sundown, folding its wings to rest as the Navajo dismounted to explore their new surroundings and the bird turned to stone.
But the Navajo’s troubles were not over. Another story tells of a pair of people-eating Bird Monsters who built a nest on top of Tsé Bit’ a’í and hatched two babies. Changing Woman, Navajo stories say, sent Monster Slayer, one of her two warrior twins, to kill the dreadful creatures.
After defeating them, he cut off the head of one and threw it as far as he could. It landed more than a hundred miles to the east, where it became Cabezon Peak (geologically, another volcanic neck that erupted around 2 million years ago).
Then, Monster Slayer spared the babies, turning one into the eagle and the other into the owl.
Where to See Shiprock Peak
Shiprock is a National Natural Landmark visible from up to 50 miles away due to its elevation high above the desert floor. The winged rock rises from the desert floor 15 miles southwest of Shiprock, but you can’t miss this dramatic formation if you’re in this part of New Mexico.
This sacred peak should only be viewed and photographed from paved roads such as Indian Service Route 13 or U.S. Highway 491. Driving on the dirt road leading to rock formation is prohibited, as are overnight camping or climbing the pinnacle, and you can’t use a drone without a permit.
So, stay on the paved roadway to get a look at Shiprock and take a while to enjoy the view of the peak before heading off to the rest of your Four Corners area adventures.
Photographing Shiprock
The iconic rock formation, which has even been featured on a U.S. postage stamp, is a marvelous place to see. You can get remarkable photos from U.S. Highway 491, especially at dawn and sunset during the golden hours.
Just south of Shiprock is Indian Service Route 13, heading west into Arizona. The road passes through the southeastern dike and connects with multiple dirt roads that lead to the base of Shiprock. However, most of these roads cross private property, and visitors are not allowed to go to the base of Shiprock.
The combined dike and Shiprock make for amazing photos. Sunrise and sunset are prime times, although the dark breccia of the dike loses detail in shadows. Clear, cold winter air contributes to the pictures, although warmer months offer wildflowers — but also rattlesnakes. Storms and fluffy cloud formations add drama to photos. But summer monsoon storms can be dangerous.
Remember Shiprock, Tsé Bit’ a’í, is sacred to the Navajo and should be treated with dignity and reverence.
Shiprock Was Once a Climbing Destination
Throughout the early 20th century, Shiprock was among the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. Because the rock is crumbly, no one managed to summit until October 1939.
It was then, using expansion bolts, the first Anglos successfully reached the top. People continued climbing, leaving behind their trash.
Then in the 1970s climbing was banned, not just because of several accidents and difficult rescues but also because the Navajo consider Shiprock sacred. Even so, climbers continue to sneak up to the mountain and attempt to climb it.
A 2006 announcement from the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department stated, “Even more serious than the physical harm illegal climbs could pose is the religious damage done to the Navajo people by non-Navajo visitors.” It added, Shiprock was “sacred to the Navajo people and any human interaction is strictly off limits.”
Shiprock in the Movies
Even if you haven’t been to Northern New Mexico, you may have seen Shiprock in movies like Transformers, John Carter, The Lone Ranger, Jumanji: The Next Level, and RezBall, released in 2024. It first appeared on the silver screen in 1946’s My Darling Clementine.
Planning Ahead for Your Visit
Remember, that there are no bathrooms, food, or gas stations near Shiprock Peak. The nearest amenities are in the town of Shiprock, 15 miles north, and the nearest hotel is an hour away in Farmington.
Cell phone reception is unreliable. Wherever you’re exploring in the Southwest, bring plenty of water and keep your car’s gas tank topped off.
Conclusion
Shiprock Peak stands high above the surrounding desert land in northwestern New Mexico on the Navajo Nation, not far from the town of Shiprock.
This sacred peak is not a destination for a long visit since you can’t do activities like hiking or overnight camping there. Still, make a stop during your Four Corners travels and photograph it from the side of a paved roadway.
