A Guide to Visiting the Ancient Cliff Dwellings
In 1909, President William Taft established Navajo National Monument to protect the three Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwelling sites found there. Betatakin is the easiest of the cliff dwellings to see and is one of the major draws to this national monument. Let’s learn more about why you should add Navajo National Monument to your Four Corners trip.
Navajo National Monument is located in northern Arizona within the Navajo Nation. It is a special place to visit and is not as crowded as many other Four Corners destinations. In fact, it receives only an average of 150 visitors a day. You’ll be pleased to discover that there is no charge to visit the monument and, in fact, it’s free to camp at Navajo National Monument, too.
The monument is open year-round, but the best time to visit is from March to October, when the weather is mild. Due to its high elevation (ranging from about 5,500 feet to 7,500 feet), summers are temperate, but winter can be quite cold and snowy.
Plan to spend at least a half-day exploring the monument, but consider staying overnight to fully experience the area. There are several trails to explore, and adventurous visitors can ask about guided hikes to visit the dwellings.
Birders can ask for the monument’s checklist of birds. Some of the birds that can be spotted year-round include Common Ravens, Juniper Titmice, Bushtits, and Mountain Chickadees.
Visitor Information
The visitor center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (hours may change, so be sure to check) and offers helpful information and excellent displays, including a large collection of Native American pottery, tools, and baskets, as well as a representation of the interior of cliff dwelling rooms. In the theater, find examples of Navajo blankets, saddles, and other items. Outside the visitor center, there is a small hogan, sweat lodge, and even dinosaur tracks.
Rangers are available to answer questions and provide guidance on exploring the monument. They’ll know about the availability of guided tours and the current condition of the trails.
The visitor center also offers a gift shop, film, and picnic area. While you’re there, ask about the Junior Ranger program, which is open to people of all ages. Complete the activities in the booklet and get a special Junior Ranger badge to commemorate your visit.
Camping at Navajo National Monument
There aren’t many national monuments that offer free camping, but this is one. There are two campgrounds: Sunset View, which is nearest to the visitor center, and Canyon View. There are size restrictions for RVs at the monument, which can accommodate rigs up to 28 feet.
Sunset View Campground, on paved roads, has 31 sites and offers flush toilets. Potable water is available for cooking and filling small containers at the sinks outside the restrooms, but is unavailable in winter.
Canyon View Campground is on a narrow, unpaved road with some low-hanging branches. There are 14 campsites with outstanding views of the canyon. This campground has composting toilets and no water is available. Canyon View Campground is closed during winter months and is intended for tent camping. Check to see if RV camping is allowed when you visit.
Campsites in both campgrounds have picnic tables and charcoal grills. Wood fires are not allowed and campers should check on any further fire restrictions.
The campsites are first come, first served. You simply pick your spot and set up camp. Be aware that alcohol is prohibited on the Navajo Nation and it is illegal to collect firewood or piñon nuts in the park.
Camping is limited to seven days per visit and 14 days per year.
Exploring the Cliff Dwellings
The monument protects three well-preserved cliff dwellings: Betatakin, Keet Seel, and Inscription House. Protecting these magnificent dwellings was the reason for creating the national monument, which is managed by the National Park Service.
You can see Betatakin from the overlook on the paved Sandal Trail. You may want to bring binoculars or a telephoto lens to get a closer view since you’ll be peering across Betatakin Canyon.
Betatakin was inhabited from about 1250 to 1300. The large alcove provided shelter for the dwellings the Ancestral Puebloans built within it, and as it faces south, there was shade from the overhang during summer, and the lower sun of winter warmed the dwellings. Betatakin once had 135 ruins, some destroyed by rockfall, and probably housed up to 125 people.
Keet Seel, the largest of the villages at Navajo National Monument, is also one of the best preserved in the Southwest. It can only be visited during a guided hike (see below). People lived here from as early as 950 and by 1272, some 150 families lived there. But, by 1300, like Betatakin, it was deserted.
Inscription House is closed to the public due to its unstable and fragile condition. Half of its rooms were built of adobe bricks instead of stone blocks. The name comes from inscriptions carved into walls, which are now believed to have been made by Mormons who settled in the areas in the mid-1800s.
Hiking and Trails
The monument offers three self-guided trails, including the Sandal Trail, which leads to an overlook of the Betatakin ruins. This 1.3-mile round-trip trail is paved and while it does have an elevation drop, is considered fairly easy (you may disagree on the way back up to the visitor center, however, thanks to the high elevation of the monument).
Another self-guided hike you can try is the Canyon View Trail. It is 0.8 miles round-trip and also begins behind the visitor center. This trail takes you to the historic ranger station, with a bench providing a dramatic view of Betatakin Canyon about halfway to the station. Near the historic ranger station, which was the first building used to welcome visitors, is a hogan dedicated in 2024. This trail is considered easy.
The Aspen Trail branches off the Sandal Trail and drops 300 feet to see a relic forest of aspen, which is a habitat for the endangered Mexican Spotted Owl. The steep, 0.8-mile round-trip trail includes stairs, which don’t always have handrails. Consider this hike strenuous.
Hikers can also explore the monument’s backcountry with a permit and guided tour.
Guided Tours
More fit and experienced hikers can sign up to see the extraordinary cliff dwellings at Navajo National Monument from a closer vantage point. Be aware, however, that these hikes are both very strenuous and include a dramatic elevation change (and what goes down must come back up!). Consider your ability and condition before signing up for these hikes. Some people have attempted them and have not been able to complete them. Remember: you’re at a high altitude!
The ranger-led hikes usually take place on weekends between Memorial Day and Labor Day. There will be a sign-up sheet in the ranger station for the limited space opportunity that generally leaves at 7 a.m. (be aware that Navajo National Monument, like the rest of the Navajo Nation, observes Daylight Savings Time, unlike the State of Arizona, which remains on Mountain Standard Time).
Betatakin is the cliff dwelling you can view from across the canyon at the end of the Sandal Trail. To view it more closely, you can take a strenuous five-mile round-trip hike, which takes from four to five hours.
The Keet Seel guided tour is a 17-mile round-trip hike to one of the best-preserved cliff dwellings in the Southwest. This hike is especially for fit and experienced hikers who are comfortable with a 1,000-foot elevation drop and water crossings. Most hikers on this route choose to spend the night at the primitive Keet Seel campground. A ranger will guide the group on a tour of the dwellings, offering visitors a deeper understanding of the monument’s history and culture.
The guided tours to Betatakin and Keet Seel ruins require a permit and are limited to 20 people each day.
Connections to Several Native American Tribes
Navajo National Monument is located within the Navajo Nation, the country’s largest Indigenous reservation. However, several other tribes have connections to this beautiful landscape.
The Hopi, who now live on mesas surrounded by the Navajo Nation, have identified pictographs on the canyon walls at Navajo National Monument as representing clans from their culture. Keet Seel, they say, has symbols identifying the Fire, Flute, and Bighorn Sheep clans. Betatakin has symbols related to the Deer, Fire, Flute, and Water clans. Inscription House was once home to the Rattlesnake, Sand, and Lizard clans.
Bands of San Juan Southern Paiute were living in the area of all three ruins that are part of Navajo National Monument. The Zuni also have strong connections to Tsegi Canyon and believe several of their clans originated here before they migrated to their home at Zuni Pueblo in New Mexico.
Learn more about the rich Native American culture of the area at the visitor center.
Nearby Attractions and Activities
Navajo National Monument is located near other Ancestral Puebloan sites, including Canyon de Chelly National Monument and Grand Canyon National Park, both in Arizona.
Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado and Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico are also home to many Ancestral Puebloan sites.
Visitors can also explore the nearby town of Kayenta, which offers amenities and services.
Tips and Essentials
When you explore Navajo National Monument, be sure to bring plenty of water and wear sunscreen and a hat, as the desert sun can be intense. Because you’ll be at altitude, you’ll need to drink more water and be more careful about sun exposure as you can burn more easily. Wear comfortable hiking shoes and layers, as the weather can change quickly.
Respect the monument’s rules and regulations, as well as the Navajo Nation’s cultural and spiritual sites. Do not walk or sit on ruins or take any artifacts you find there.
While the monument is open year-round, the visitor center is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. If there is severe winter weather, the park may have delayed opening or even be closed if the roads are impassable.
Remember that Navajo National Monument, as well as the rest of the Navajo Nation, observes Mountain Daylight Savings Time, but the rest of the state of Arizona does not. Therefore, from March to November the park’s time will be one hour ahead of the rest of Arizona.
Don’t forget that visiting and camping are both free!
Find more information on the National Park Service website.
Conclusion
Navajo National Monument is a fascinating destination where you can learn about Ancestral Puebloan people and today’s Navajo culture.
With its stunning cliff dwellings, scenic trails, and rich cultural heritage, the monument is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in the American Southwest. Like many destinations in the Four Corners, visiting Navajo National Monument may take you a bit off the beaten path, but it is certainly worth the trip.