A Guide to History, Culture, Hiking, and Lodging
About Hovenweep National Monument
Hovenweep National Monument is a community of Ancestral Puebloan structures and prehistoric villages built near the Utah-Colorado border. The national monument is a lesser-explored site administered by the National Park Service, with only about 40,000 visitors annually. The park offers activities like hiking and exploring ancient ruins.
When you’re looking for lodging nearby, the historic and luxurious Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch, in an idyllic location near Cortez, Colorado, is the ideal home base for visiting Hovenweep National Monument.
The Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch offers private home and cabin rentals near Durango, Mesa Verde National Park, Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, Monument Valley, Hovenweep National Monument, and many other natural attractions in the Four Corners region.
History and Culture
Hovenweep National Monument holds over 6,000 years of human evidence, revealing traces of camped Paleo-Indians along the Cajon Mesa, nomadic hunter-gatherers, Basketmakers, Ancestral Puebloan people, and later agricultural settlements.
Once home to over 2,500 Indigenous Americans with contributions from many tribes, including the Hopi, Pueblo, Ute, Navajo, and Jicarilla Apache, the Hovenweep site includes the ruins of six prehistoric villages.
Hovenweep Established
Prehistoric Pueblo I (c. 750 – 900 A.D.) communities built stone, south-facing U, E, and L-shaped buildings at Hovenweep. Strategically, the buildings are close together with protective one-story lookout towers placed near kivas, the place of rites, discussions, and ceremonies.
More residential structures sprouted during the Pueblo II period (c. 900 – 1150 A.D.), suggesting the Hovenweep people transitioned to a more sedentary and community-oriented lifestyle. Like the Mesa Verde National Park settlements, Hovenweep construction moved to canyon heads from previous placement on mesa tops, likely to improve water access.
Construction boomed in the Hovenweep Pueblo III period (c. 1150 – 1350 A.D.), with larger residential areas, multistory towers, and water management facilities cropping up. Adapted-foundation stone structures erected in this period exhibit extraordinary masonry and engineering skills. Hovenweep House, Hovenweep Castle, Square Tower, Rim Rock House, Twin Towers, Strong Hold House, and Unit-type House are among the most noteworthy and still-explorable structures built in this era.
A Settlement Abandoned
Researchers believe the Puebloan people migrated away from the Hovenweep site by the late 1200s A.D. The precise reason for their leaving is unknown. Speculation suggests prolonged drought, dwindling resources, and societal conflict could have contributed to the abandonment of Hovenweep.
European Discovery
Hovenweep remained uninhabited for hundreds of years. At the behest of Brigham Young, William D. Huntington approached the site in 1854 after consulting his Ute and Navajo guides, who warned him the site was haunted.
In 1878, explorers William Henry Jackson and William Henry Holmes co-opted the Paiute and Ute word “Hovenweep,” meaning “deserted valley,” to refer to the sites. Concerned about looting and vandalism, T. Mitchell Pruden examined the area in 1903. Pruden reported that trespassers had devastated buildings, cultural relics and remnants, and disturbed burial remains.
By 1918, Smithsonian ethnologist J. Walter Fewkes recommended site protections. President Warren G. Harding declared the site’s 784 acres a National Park Service national monument in 1923. The Hovenweep National Monument made the 1966 National Register of Historic Places list. Archaeological exploration of the site began in the 1970s. The International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) declared Hovenweep the seventeenth International Dark Sky Park in 2014. Hovenweep National Monument achieved a Gold Tier rating for sky quality, making it one of the best places for stargazing in the Four Corners and the world.
Hiking and Exploring
Hovenweep National Monument is an adventure wonderland for contemporary hikers and explorers. The park offers easy, moderate, and challenging trails that lead visitors to ancient ruins and scenic viewpoints.
The historic Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch has five cabins and two dwellings at the nearby Sky Village area.
7950 Road G
Cortez, CO 81321
970-565-4288
Story sponsored by Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch
Some of the best Hovenweep hiking trails include:
The Square Tower Loop Trail
The Square Tower Loop Trail is a two-mile trek that takes visitors to the Square Tower Group, with outstanding views of the surrounding canyon. The Square Tower Group is the largest in the park, with square, oval, D-shaped, and circular towers.
The Little Ruin Trail
The Little Ruin Trail is an easy 1.5-mile hike that takes visitors to the Square Tower Group for sightings of the fortress-like Stronghold House, Boulder House, Little Ruin Canyon, the Twin Towers, Rim Rock House, the Square Tower Unit, and the Hovenweep Castle.
Hovenweep Castle Hike
Visitors hoping to quickly explore the Hovenweep Castle and Square Tower can take a 0.82-mile round-trip portion of the Square Tower Loop Trail. Hovenweep Castle hikers can then follow their footsteps back to the entrance.
Holly Group Trails
The Holly Petroglyph Panels are accessible via two rough trailheads that might require a high-clearance 4WD vehicle. The Hovenweep Visitor Center advises guests about the location and road conditions. Those who make it to the Holly parking lot can choose between two out-and-back primitive trails — a shorter 0.44-mile stomp or a seven-mile out-and-back quest through Keely Canyon.
Cutthroat Castle Trail
The Cutthroat Castle Group features two no-maintenance dirt road trailheads. Explorers should stop by the Hovenweep Visitor Center for information about directions, road conditions, and closings. The upper trailhead is a 1.34-mile out-and-back hike to the well-preserved Cutthroat Castle. The shorter lower trailhead offers a 0.14-mile jaunt to the exact location.
Hackberry and Horseshoe Trail
Another primitive out-and-back trail that might require a lifted 4WD vehicle is the 1.44-mile Hackberry and Horseshoe Trail. Brave travelers pass slickrock and sandy wash along the canyon rim toward the Horseshoe House and the once-lavish, now-crumbled Hackberry House.
Camping and Accommodations
Camping is permitted year-round at Hovenweep’s 31-spot campground. Sites are primarily designed for tents, with tent pads, shade structures, picnic tables, and fire rings. A few areas in the campsite can accommodate RVs up to 36 feet long, but no hookups are present. The Hovenweep Campground permits a break from the modern world by offering an electricity-free environment without cell service and seasonally potable water.
If roughing it isn’t your thing, Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch in Cortez, Colorado, is a comfortable nearby alternative with all the Southwestern landscape mystique, plus amenities.
Planning Your Visit
Located in the high desert of the Colorado Plateau, the Hovenweep area experiences dramatic temperature swings from day to night and season to season. Summers tend to be scorchingly hot, while winters are frigidly cold. The best time to visit Hovenweep National Monument is in the spring and fall when temperatures are moderate.
Visitors can get to the park by using the National Park Service website for turn-by-turn directions (GPS is not recommended, as it can mislead travelers, and cell service is spotty). A pass is required for vehicles, motorcycles, or individuals on foot. The single-use standard entrance fees range from $10 to $20. Annual passes are also available. America the Beautiful annual pass holders may enter the park for free. The park offers discounted rates for a variety of life circumstances.
All Hovenweep explorers must stay on designated trails and avoid damaging the park’s natural and cultural resources. Pets are welcome but must be kept on a leash of six feet or less.
Visiting with Kids
Hovenweep National Monument is a family-friendly park that offers a unique opportunity to learn about the lives of the Ancestral Puebloan people. The park hosts interpretive talks and demonstrations that give children insight into the daily lives of the land’s former inhabitants.
The park also offers a Junior Ranger Program for kids aged 6 to 12. The program teaches children about the cultural history of Hovenweep and how to preserve it.
Nearby Attractions and Activities
Hovenweep is conveniently located near Mesa Verde National Park, another site offering a glimpse into the lives of the Ancestral Pueblo people. The park is also close to the Four Corners Monument, where visitors can explore the intersection of four states: Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, and Colorado. Durango, Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, Monument Valley, and many other Four Corners natural wonders are within reach.
Conclusion
Hovenweep National Monument is a unique and fascinating park that offers a glimpse into the lives of the Ancestral Puebloans. Ample opportunity exists to explore the park’s ancient ruins, hike to scenic viewpoints, and enjoy the clear sky. The park is a bucket list destination for anyone interested in national monuments, prehistoric history, and the natural beauty of the American Southwest.
Before embarking on your Hovenweep National Monument adventure, book luxury accommodations with a private home or cabin at Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch in beautiful Cortez, Colorado. Find your home away from home at Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch near Hovenweep National Monument and immerse yourself in the same pristine wilderness as those who came before.