Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness in northwestern New Mexico was formed long ago, before there was a place called Four Corners or people to give it that name. Today, this wilderness area of 45,000 acres under the authority of the Bureau of Land Management is a popular destination for adventurous outdoor enthusiasts who want to explore this striking scenery featuring otherworldly sandstone formations, petrified wood, and fossils. Both hiking and primitive camping are allowed here without a fee year-round.
When Four Corners Was Under Water
In the Cretaceous period (145 million to 55 million years ago), when dinosaurs ruled, what would become North America was divided north to south by the Western Interior Seaway, a shallow inland sea under which formed the land that would become the Four Corners region. Even the Rocky Mountains had yet to be born.
Because the area was covered by water, thick sediments formed and, over time, became limestone, sandstone, siltstone, and mudstone. The area was a seasonal tropical forest alongside a coastal swamp in which numerous plants grew but it was dominated by angiosperms (flowering plants).
Mass Extinction Made Bisti/De-Na-Zin Possible
About 65 million years ago, the Earth experienced its fifth mass extinction, in a time period we call the Cretaceous-Tertiary boundary. It wiped out nearly three-quarters of all animal life. Sea turtles, sharks, and crocodilians survived, as did enough insects, birds, and small mammals to repopulate the planet.
As life recovered and continued to evolve, animals died and were buried in sediments, and large swaths of plants died and were covered. The pressure that created the land mass turned the plants into coal and fossilized the animals.
As if a living being, the Earth breathed out, and the land pushed up, driving out the water, lifting the mountains, erupting massive volcanoes, and creating the Colorado Plateau. Over millions of years, wind, rain, and snow eroded and sculpted the land’s surface.
Arriving at the Current Time
Slip into the present day, and the land, 40 miles south of Farmington, is now known as the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness. It is about 60 square miles of badlands in the high desert and contains some of the most unique rock formations on the planet. It also harbors the longest, most complete fossil record in the world of the Cretaceous period — fossils of reptiles, dinosaurs, and early mammals.
Some 200 species of animal and plant fossils, including petrified logs, leaf impressions, and carbonized leaves, have been identified in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness, also called the Bisti Badlands. (Bisti is pronounced bis-tie and is Navajo for “large area of shale hills.” De-Na-Zin is a Navajo phrase meaning “standing cranes.”)
Explore Shapes and Colors of Rock Formations
You can visit the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness to see the remains of this prehistoric coastal swamp. The Bisti/De-Na Zin-Wilderness is known for its unique geology, featuring shale hills, petrified wood, and other natural wonders. In fact, National Geographic Traveler called Bisti a must-visit destination.
You may be there to see the imaginative rock formations — hoodoos, pinnacles, desert spires, and arches. But you’ll also encounter a kaleidoscope of color. There are gray shales embedded with thin layers of coal. Resistant beds of white sandstone form cap rocks over eroded, softer stone to create hoodoos.
Formations contain brown to purple iron concretions, green siltstone, and purple mudstone. In some places, coal caught fire, its heat producing hard, red rocks called clinkers, a name given because of the sound the red stones make when you walk on them.
Visitors can explore the area’s stone formations, which are a testament to the area’s rich geological history.
Fossils and Petrified Wood
The De-Na-Zin Wilderness area is also home to the KTB layer, short for Cretaceous-Tertiary boundary, a layer in the geological record from the time of the extinction of the dinosaurs.
The New Mexico Bureau of Geology & Mineral Resources website explains, “The many fossils preserved in this region make this one of the best places on Earth to study the fascinating story of the end of the age of dinosaurs and the beginning of the age of mammals.
These fossils will not be obvious to casual visitors, but [they] will be instantly struck by the spectacular scenery of this area, which has been featured in books, magazines, calendars, and websites.”
Petrified wood, which is trees turned to stone, can also be found in abundance in some areas of the wilderness. But don’t be tempted to take any home with you, as removing anything (other than what you brought in) from the wilderness area is prohibited.
Access De-Na-Zin Wilderness
There are a couple of access points to the wilderness, the Bisti Trailhead and the De-Na-Zin Trailhead. Since it’s not unusual for people to get confused trying to find them, we’ll let the Bureau of Land Management give directions.
Depending on which trailhead you access, you’ll have a different wilderness experience. In fact, the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness originally was two separate wildernesses. The former Bisti Wilderness at the western end near NM 371 includes the famous sculpted sandstone landscapes that are popular with photographers and hikers.
During dry weather, a four-wheel drive or high-clearance vehicle shouldn’t be required to access the wilderness area as the roads are graded, but the BLM warns that County Road 7500, which is unpaved, can become extremely slick after rain or snow.
Do’s and Don’ts of Wilderness Visits
If you want an in-depth excursion or think exploring a wilderness area for the first time is intimidating, consider joining a guided tour. Remember, this is truly wilderness. There are no facilities, no water sources, and no marked hiking trails. It’s possible to get lost, so a paper or digital map, GPS unit, or compass is recommended to help you navigate. You may want to take a photograph showing the way you came to help you recognize the way out.
Visitors come to hike and explore the unique landscapes, and many also come for truly world-class photography opportunities of the strange rock formations. Bring lots of water and perhaps snacks, but pack out what you pack in. The same holds true if you decide to camp here.
There is little shade in this mostly treeless environment, and it can become dangerously hot in summer. Plan your hikes for early morning or late afternoon if you visit in summer. On the other hand, winter can be snowy and very cold. Dress appropriately for the weather, wearing layers so you can add or remove them as needed. However, most people visit in late spring, early summer, or fall to avoid the hot summer and cold winter.
Motorized vehicles and bikes, drones, and campfires are not permitted. You can enjoy the rocks, fossils, and petrified wood, but don’t remove any. Others want the same experience you’re having. Don’t climb on the delicate formations, either.
Wildlife and Ecosystems
The area’s ecosystem is fragile and unique, with very little vegetation growing in the area.
Still, the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness is home to a wide range of wildlife, including cottontail rabbits, coyotes, badgers, and prairie dogs.
Bisti also supports nesting golden eagles, ferruginous hawks, and prairie falcons, species extremely susceptible to human disturbance. If you are fortunate to see one of these birds, don’t approach it or disturb its stick nest. Move away as quickly and quietly as possible.
Because Bisti is interspersed with Navajo tribal lands, you might encounter horses or cattle that have wandered into the wilderness. Just leave them alone, and they’ll go home . . . eventually. Respect the adjoining private property and stay within the wilderness boundaries.
Planning Your Visit
Visitors can get help planning their visit to the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness by contacting the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) or visiting the Farmington Field Office. There is no visitor center. The area is open year-round, but visitors should be prepared for extreme weather conditions, including heat, cold, and wind. Be aware that there are no marked trails to follow, just wide open spaces to explore.
Primitive camping is allowed in the wilderness areas, and RVers can camp in the parking lot. Just be prepared with all your own supplies, and remember to take out anything you bring in. You likely won’t have cell phone reception, so download any digital maps in advance.
The elevation averages 6,500 feet in the land above the badlands, which is a few hundred feet lower due to erosion. If you haven’t acclimated to the altitude yet, be sure to take it easy and drink plenty of water.
Horseback riding and horse packing are allowed at Bisti, giving the opportunity to explore wider swathes of the wilderness.
Guided Tours and Exploration
Guided Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness tours are available through local tour operators. These tours can be a great way to explore the area and learn about its unique geology, unusual scenery, history, and culture with the added benefit of being with a guide who knows the way around . . . and back out again.
Of course, visitors can explore the area on their own, using maps and guides to navigate the wilderness. The area is also home to several scenic drives and viewpoints, which offer stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
Other Nearby Places to Visit
While the wilderness is somewhat remote, there are other places to visit in the area. You may want to stop at the Farmington field office for information, and while you’re there, explore nearby locations like Aztec Ruins National Monument, or continue on your theme of being adventurous and travel down the unpaved road to beautiful Chaco Canyon. Shiprock is another view you shouldn’t miss in this part of the state.
Conclusion
The Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness is a fantasy world waiting to be explored in the Four Corners area. Plan your adventure carefully, and you’ll have exciting tales to tell of unusual scenery most people haven’t seen.
