A Treasure of Ancient Landscapes
Bears Ears National Monument in southeastern Utah encompasses many must-see destinations, including other national monuments and fascinating destinations on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) or forest service land.
This wide swath of protected landscape is managed by the BLM, National Forest Service, and five Native American tribes of the Bears Ears Commission, protecting thousands of natural and cultural resources. Let’s explore what there is to see and do in this part of Utah.
Bears Ears National Monument History
Bears Ears National Monument was initially established as a national monument by President Obama in 2016. It stretches north toward Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky District and as far south as Goosenecks State Park near Monument Valley.
The 2021 Presidential Proclamation by President Biden restoring land removed from Bears Ears National Monument in 2017 says, “The Bears Ears landscape — bordered by the Colorado River to the west, the San Juan River and the Navajo Nation to the south, low bluffs and high mesas to the east and north, and Canyonlands National Park to the northwest, and brimming with towering sandstone spires, serpentine canyons, awe-inspiring natural bridges and arches, as well as the famous twin Bears Ears Buttes standing sentinel over the sacred region — is not just a series of isolated objects, but is, itself, an object of historic and scientific interest requiring protection under the Antiquities Act.”
Bears Ears is important to many Indigenous tribes, including the Hopi Tribe, Navajo Nation, Ute Indian Tribe of the Uintah and Ouray Reservation, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, and Pueblo of Zuni. More than 20 other tribal nations and pueblos have cultural ties to the area as well. The monument now protects 1.36 million acres of land in southeastern Utah.
Exploring the Diverse Areas of Bears Ears National Monument
Because it is so large, it is unlikely you’ll visit all of Bears Ears National Monument in one trip. It is also important to note that there is not a visitor center or entry station for Bears Ears, although you can learn more at the Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum in Blanding, Utah, and at the Bears Ears Education Center operated by the Bears Ears Partnership in Bluff to the south (open seasonally Thursday through Monday).
Indian Creek
In the northern section of Bears Ears National Monument, a popular destination is the Indian Creek corridor along Highway 211. The road drops down from Highway 191 into a scenic canyon. The road will eventually take you to the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, but along the way, you can explore Newspaper Rock, a rock panel covered with more than 600 petroglyphs, plus rock climbing routes and three designated campgrounds.
This beautiful canyon follows a windy road which encourages you to take your time and stop often to explore. Rock climbers will find some of the best crack climbing routes in the country, although there are few routes designated for beginners. Birders will want to keep their binoculars at the ready to look for Golden Eagles and Peregrine Falcons, who nest in the cliffs, as well as many other birds.
The three campgrounds within this corridor are managed by the BLM: Hamburger Rock, Superbowl, and Creek Pasture. These campsites are first-come, first-served for $15 per night with a maximum stay of 14 days. If they’re full, you can look for dispersed camping locations along the way.
Cedar Mesa
The Cedar Mesa and Comb Ridges areas of Bears Ears National Monument are excellent places to hike and visit Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings. This area is popular with backpackers and day hikers, who challenge themselves with the rugged routes through gorges and canyons. Some destinations within the area require permits and even reservations, like the challenging road and then hike to Moon House.
Some of the many locations to visit encompassed within this part of Bears Ears include Natural Bridges National Monument, Mule Canyon Interpretive Site, House on Fire, and Butler Wash Road and Dinosaur Tracksite, all along Highway 95.
Turning south on Highway 261 brings visitors to access points for the Kane Gulch Ranger Station, Todie Canyon, Slickhorn Road, Moki Dugway, and Valley of the Gods.
Both Highway 95 and 261 are part of the Trails of the Ancients Scenic Byway.
Butler Wash Dinosaur Tracksite
If you have dinosaur fans in your group, be sure to make a stop at the Butler Wash Dinosaur Tracksite. From Highway 95 take San Juan County Road 262. Continue for a quarter mile to the trailhead. There’s a short (about a quarter mile round trip) hike to see the tracks of dinosaurs who walked there more than 160 million years ago in the Jurassic Period. A kiosk provides further information.
Mule Canyon Interpretive Site
A stop at Mule Canyon Interpretive Site on Highway 95 near Texas Flat Road provides an easy way to visit a 700-year-old Ancestral Puebloan village. There is a quarter-mile paved trail that leads to interpretive panels explaining about the ruins of a 12-room pueblo and a restored kiva. There are also vault toilets, benches, and it’s free to visit.
House on Fire
Another popular stop along Highway 95 is House on Fire, which requires a two-mile round-trip hike on a moderately challenging trail that leads to a set of granaries on the South Fork of Mule Canyon. The trail continues for up to seven miles for those looking to get in a longer hike to see more Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings and other ruins.
The dramatic House on Fire ruins situated under an alcove is a popular photography destination (photographers recommend trying to get there in mid-morning for the best light). To get there, take County Road 263/Texas Flat Road north from Highway 95 (near mile marker 102) and you’ll see the kiosk to purchase your backcountry permit.
Backcountry Camping in Cedar Mesa
If you want to go backpacking in Bears Ears National Monument, there are many outstanding options, but there may be paperwork involved. Overnight backpacking in many canyons on Cedar Mesa requires a BLM permit, including Grand Gulch, Fish Canyon, Owl Canyon, Slickhorn Canyon, North and South Forks of Mule Canyon, Road Canyon, Lime Creek, Butler Wash, and their tributaries.
Only 20 permits are available per trailhead per day for the listed locations. Twelve permits per trailhead are available for reservation through Recreation.gov and the remaining eight are for walk-in backpackers. Permits are $15 per person per trip.
San Juan River
The San Juan River winds through the area on its way to join the Colorado River. Rafters and kayakers can experience Bears Ears National Monument from an entirely different viewpoint, but permits are required to float the river year-round. It’s so popular that there is a lottery for launch dates between April 15 through July 15.
You can look down on the entrenched meanders of the San Juan River at Goosenecks State Park at the southern edge of Bears Ears National Monument, not far from Mexican Hat. While you’re in the area, be sure to drive through Valley of the Gods, considered a miniature Monument Valley. It’s free to visit or camp at Valley of the Gods.
Dark Skies and Stargazing in Bears Ears National Monument
Due to the isolated location of most of Bears Ears National Monument, there are plenty of places to enjoy exceptionally dark skies at night. Being away from bright city lights in areas with very little light pollution allows visitors to sit back and enjoy the night skies as early native peoples would have seen them. The Milky Way shows brightly across the sky and you can watch for shooting stars and manmade satellites.
Two designated Dark Sky Parks are within Bears Ears National Monument: Goosenecks State Park and Natural Bridges National Monument. But there are beautiful night skies to be found almost anywhere within the monument.
Tips for Visiting Bears Ears National Monument
Just as anyplace in the desert Southwest, you’ll be visiting isolated locations. Make sure your vehicle is in good condition, you have plenty of water (plan on a gallon per day per person) and snacks, and fill up the gas tank often. Wear hats and sun protection. Be sure you have paper maps, too, as there are places you won’t be able to get a signal.
Remember, too, to show respect to the ruins you visit. Do not climb on them or take any artifacts you find. Leave them for others to discover and enjoy.
Conclusion
If you’re visiting the Four Corners region, you may be exploring Bears Ears National Monument without even realizing it. This vast space encompasses many archaeological sites, enticing public lands, and other national monuments. There’s a lot to explore, so get traveling!
